20120212

Post Paris XVII

A false encyclopaedic guide to the menswear collections, presenting:
Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2012








1. Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2010 campaign
2. Ann-Sofie Back Spring/Summer 2011
3. Justin Timberlake for Rolling Stone

After his signature muddiness and a re-orientation towards crisp minimalsim, Rick Owens celebrates wetlook. Shiny surfaces that either imply polymer fabrications or simple wetness. Both conclusions are highly satisfying.
/HORST

20120211

Split Screen













All clothes Bruno Pieters for Weekday

A monochrome outside world below zero degrees. Washed stone, snow-covered concrete, traces of road salt. A scenery of grey, white and beige. Acclimatization as survival of the fittest.
/HORST

20120210

Couples II



1. Anthony Vaccarello Spring/Summer 2012
2. Yiqing Yin Spring/Summer 2012

The 'cut and paste' dress. Two versions. One defined by sharp and severe lines, the other recurring in a haphazard gesture. Details that define a woman, pending between perfectionist glamour girl and goth amazon.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

Couples



1. Céline Spring/Summer 2012
2. Matthew Miller Spring/Summer 2012

The horizontal block stripe, white on white. A belted waist. While he is wearing layered shorts, she sports a deconstructed version of skirt-like flaps. A perfect couple has many things in common, yet shows differential characteristics.
/HORST

Image credits Catwalking

20120209

Forgotten Persoons






Clothes Jurgi Persoons
Photograms Laszlo Moholy-Nagy

And suddenly there was Jurgi Persoons. Within the (too) short time span of 1997 to 2003, the unavowed Antwerp locum introduced clothes for 'anorectic, rich and lazy young girls'. His broken minimalism still merits recognition.
/HORST