Fashion Charts XXIV

or 'Something like a Fall/Winter 2016 trend report'

1. Hand Job (as seen at Charles Jeffrey & Walter van Beirendonck)
Scribbled garment portraits. A children's mind, fantasy and nightmares projected onto daddy's clothes.

2. Plastic Surgery (as seen at Craig Green & Études)
Today's biotech-genetic Frankenstein craving eternal youth while fighting the war against antiageing.

3. Kurt Cocaine (After) (as seen at Walter van Beirendonck & Roberto Cavalli)
The later years. Misused inside, decadent and pretty on the outside. The dressed body, a sad poem of loneliness.

4. Kurt Cocaine (Before) (as seen at MSGM & Valentino)
The early years. Young and restless inside, broken and patched on the outside. The dressed body, a soft rebellion against fame.

5. Everyday Psycho (as seen at Christian Dada & Jil Sander)
Full-on leather business suit with a matte shine. Like a chocolate and latex coated McCarthy sculpture slash sex toy slash boy toy.

Trends do not exist anymore. But familarities.


As (A) Screenprint

Martine Rose Fall/Winter 2016

The psychedelic and homo-erotic butt action painting series of Martine Rose's Mapplethorpe-cum-Pollock-laden fashion film. Beauty lies in its multiple forms. Who is there to judge.


Brothers, Unreleased

LAZOSCHMIDL Fall/Winter 2016

An established motif in soft pornography and erotic same sex culture, two siblings discovering their bodily desires is being translated into a collection of silk pyjama trousers and floral lace shirts. The naïve romanticism is further explored with water colour prints, paisley embroidery and sparkly lurex.

Image credits Hedvig Jenning


Pinocchio's Buttplug

1. Walter van Beirendonck Fall/Winter 2016
2. Paul McCarthy Pinocchio, 2001
3. Paul McCarthy The Chocolate Factory, 2014
4. Walter van Beirendonck Fall/Winter 2015

It is not the first time, Walter payed homage to Paul. A dream couple of brother-in-arms. Making the world a little more friendlier and sexier with artificially elongated body parts and faecal poetry.


The Sleeve

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2016
2. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2016 & Prada Fall/Winter 2016
3. Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2016
4. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall/Winter 2016

What holds up must fall down. A collection with sweatshirts enscripted with ‘Dead Prince College’ was the prequel to Simons’ latest trial in reviving his own history. Yet, beyond meaning and repeating, it was a styling trick we will be caught in from now on. In sync (as always) with shared friend Olivier Rizzo at Prada.