Identity Crisis

1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2013
2. Prada Fall/Winter 2013

After a recurrent tribute to Helmut Lang via Jil Sander (the cross, the show credit print), Raf is channeling Miuccia. Just like Bette Midler and Lily Tomlin in Big Business (1988) someone swapped bodies. But somehow something got lost in transmission. And comedy turns into grotesque horror, see The Fly (1958).


Andreas said...

That's sad. I hope he snaps out of that soon. Change is good, but not in this case.

Andrew said...

I don't know, I definitely saw the retro feel in it but I was feeeeeling it

I pray to the church of Raf tho so I might be biased

schnooki said...

i didn't think of this collection as a sign of a crisis. Obviously, this wasn't the best proposal but Mr Simons, but then again. Where did this idea of spectaculer-collection-for-every-season come from, where did this uber-high level of expectations come from? Since when has the idea of significancy become a norm? That's the very nature of anything out-standing to actually stand out among others. That does involve standing out among one's own body of work. Let's leave the designers their right for making side steps.
I've always seen Mr Simons as an amazing cultural observer and one can count on the man to deliver a strong commentary on the world we're living in. His current preoccupation with prints and color-blocking feels like a natural interest in the Tommy Ton phenomenon -- bring me bright, bring me colorful, bring me mad! But there's some interesting perversity in here. This is coming to the point of Raf looking at how other perceive what Raf's been doing (I'm talking about polychromy here). It's like he's taking back to the runway something he personally released from the runway some time ago. And there IS a strange touch of I don't know, un-comfort to it.
I liked what Mr Simons told about 'searching a new proportion'. That makes sense. And that's preciously what one gets form the runways -- a sense of uncertainty and a clear message of longing for something new and inability to articulate neither what that sense of newness is supposed to mean, nor where to find it. Frankly, the world has finally grown weary of retrograde uber-styled fashion of the last years. But is there anything new? I thought it was very interesting that neither Ms Kawakubo, nor Ms Prada, nor Mr Simons, nor Mr Owens, nor anyone else for that matter (and let's not even mention Mr Slimane) can nail this urgent idea of modernity -- despite of all the frenzy and talks and media stuff shoved down people's throat. How much layers of clothes, how many new prints can one develop to mascarade a delivery of fresh idea? I guess it's only time and body-of-work collections like this that can lead us somewhere we haven't been before. Step by step by step by step. At least I enjoyed the trousers at Mr Simons' show.

As much as Rem Koolhaas' ideal home looks picturesque and beautiful on Style.com's pictures, there is no one interested in inhabiting it. But what can we build then?

1972 said...

Maybe we've run out of new . . .