20130308

Post Paris XXXII

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Matthew Lindgren, discussing:
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013





As a child, my passion was dressing up and playing roles much larger than myself.
I would tie yards of red velour around my body like a nightie and recite Maggie's lines from 'Cat on a Hot Tin Roof'. Of course, I didn't understand the weight of the words I was saying or the implications of the character I was portraying, but the aesthetics were all there.

Laden with menthol and sin, Marc Jacobs presented a slinky hotel scene with characters dressing up and covering up. Women exited their rooms in silky lingerie and haphazardly-thrown on fur coats and walked through the dim hallway peering at the audience. It was a scintillating presentation, to put it mildly.

The clothes, however, lacked this stimulating. They seemed to be less Elizabeth Taylor sultry, more Lindsay-Lohan-as-Elizabeth-Taylor sultry; the fallen dressing up as the great. The plunging v-necks and lace-lined dresses almost felt forced, reminiscent of post-pubescent middle school girls showing off to potential partners at a homecoming dance; the child dressing up as the woman. The plaids felt heavy and the coats could have been pulled out of a moth-filled box from the attic. Somehow the silks felt dirty. If this is the aesthetic Marc sees the Louis Vuitton woman in, then he did a wonderful job. He should also be commended on some of the more structured coats and the craftsmanship on the red carpet-bound final gowns. The fur bags are beautiful and will have great success in the market. The true test of this collection will be in its sales. Will the Louis Vuitton woman want to dress up for parties in printed silk dresses and sequin-dipped coats? If not her, perhaps her children will.
/MATTHEW



'Girl, Interrupted' might be the best term to describe Marc Jacob's latest exploration of his Louis Vuitton signature. The negligée night crawl collection is perfectly tailored for a delusional 'real housewife' who'd love to promote her own person as a brand. From Betty Boop to Lindsay Lohan and Joan Rivers, selling 'herself' was never more emancipated, vulgar and self-ironic. Her look: silk pyjamas, lipstick and fur.
/HORST








1. Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013
2. Elizabeth Taylor Cat On A Hot Tin Roof, 1958
3. Edward Hopper Night Windows, 1928
4. Disney Pretty Pretty Princess Cinderella Edition
5. Betty Boop 1930
6. Joan Rivers What Becomes a Semi-Legend Most, 1997
7. Girl Interrupted 1999
8. Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013

More about Matthew Lindgren Three Shades Of Black

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