Post London III

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Igor Guinau, discussing:
Astrid Andersen Spring/Summer 2014

Holiday fact: Jamaican men are beyond any doubt the most beautiful in the world!
I just wanna oil up and roll myself in them!
(Astrid Andersen on Twitter, November 18th, 2012)

The winner bares it all. Hypermasculine, confident and oozing with sex appeal, Astrid Andersen’s team is going for gold. Constantly balancing between strength and fragility, Andersen brings sportswear to the next level. Her trademark pieces – the oversized basketball tanks and the puffed jackets – are still there, but this time the focus is on a more body-conscious silhouette. Showing off the wearers’ envious physiques, sometimes veiled by a second skin of lace – another Andersen trademark. Ego-crashing and eroticizing at the same time, Astrid Andersen’s men evoke a ‘fuck me or fight me’ attitude. Who dares, wins.

Andersen did the same/not the same. While further exploring the ideal idea of the most 'masculine and brutal', the most 'gender-less and androgynous' male, her man left the street behind and went straight up the escelators of a multi-storey office building. Becoming an executive athlete equipped with a body of steel and glass. A little bit like Bret Easton Ellis for Calvin Klein. Or Jared French for Pierre Cardin. It was a good sequel for the 'Male Body Image', but not a new book.

1. Astrid Andersen Spring/Summer 2014
2. Matthias Vriens-McGrath Tampa, 2010
3. Mugler Spring/Summer 2012
4. Rowan Papier Brooklyn Boys, 2013
5. Jared French Glenway Wescott, George Platt Lynes and Monroe Wheeler, 1940
6. Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2008 & 2009, Romain Kremer Fall/Winter 2010
7. Terence Koh The Camel Was God, The Camel Was Shot, 2007
8. Astrid Andersen Spring/Summer 2014

All about Igor Guinau

No comments: