Military fatigues infected by flower power, or the other way around. Before, they got married. Soldier and bride. Then they clashed. War and resistance. Then they dismantled. Grunge. Now they’re melted together, on the same body.
Everything was not really a skirt, or a shirt, or a dress, or a jacket. Lace annoying the shoulders and hems of an army jacket. Cargo pockets interrupting flounce. Plisé exploding from underneath aprons. Flat olive drab fronts ballooned in the back like a skydiving motorcyclist. We want to pick this apart and wear it with jeans. Maybe bell bottoms. Not nostalgically though, this collection wouldn’t let you be anywhere but now.
For some reason, those clothes reminded me of Rosemarie Trockel. Maybe just for the sound of the name. But also because of the sensuality for materials, her ceremaic and textile works. And then there was also some Kafka maybe. Because of the fur. Maybe.
1. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015
2. Flower Power, 1967
3. Parachuting Dog, WWII
4. Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2003
5. Nobuyoshi Araki Erotos, 1993
6. Prada Fall/Winter 2007
7. Rosemarie Trockel A Cosmos, 2013
8. Sacai Spring/Summer 2015