Martin Did It First? III

1. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2009
2. Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2016

It is the age of Margiela. Actually, there was no look without him in mind, or at least mine. Detached sleeves, naive trompe l’oeuil suit drawings, wrapped-up jersey dresses. A clew of copy and paste material. When deconstruction is reconstructed, construction is lost between the ‘de' and ‘re' of things.

See also Barbara did it first?

Martin Did It First? II

1. Clegg & Guttmann Magister Ludi ((Collaboration with Martin Kippenberger), 1986
2. Acne Spring/Summer 2016

It is the age of Margiela. What makes appropriation relevant if the mindset behind a garment is one-season-only. A dirty fling without pleasure but frayed edges and ready-made commodity prints. Unfortunately, there is nothing innocent about the manipulation of an original.

See also Barbara did it first?

Martin Did It First?

1. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1991
2. Vetements Spring/Summer 2016

It is the age of Margiela. A designer youth who never experienced the product and poetry in the first place is looking back at something they never had but always wanted. The sadness, though, lies in its misinterpretation as consumerist critique.

See also Barbara did it first?