All The Songs

Will Young - All The Songs

Thank you Rankin.

Artwork Workwear

1. Sterling Ruby Work Wear, 2016
2. Sleazenation Protect And Survive, 2002
3. Aya Tsukioka Vending Machine Dress, 2007

When what you wear becomes who you are and what you do and where you are and what you were. Sterling Ruby wears fashion in his studio, sells fashion and collaborates on fashion that is more fashion than any fashion. Who needs anything besides art to be worn?

P.S.: His staff is sexy, too.

Image credits Kaleidoscope

Martin Did It First? V

1. Maison Martin Margiela Fall/Winter 2008
2. Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2016

It is the age of Margiela. When clothes wore women and the walking sculpture was invented. Mannequin as monster, malfunction as method. Embracing fashion that is embracing the body as an entity, physically and psychologically.

See also Barbara did it first?

Martin Did It First? III

1. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2009
2. Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2016

It is the age of Margiela. Actually, there was no look without him in mind, or at least mine. Detached sleeves, naive trompe l’oeuil suit drawings, wrapped-up jersey dresses. A clew of copy and paste material. When deconstruction is reconstructed, construction is lost between the ‘de' and ‘re' of things.

See also Barbara did it first?

Double Trouble II

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Tomas C. Toth, discussing:
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016

Slashed and bound she keeps the chic. Out of work the distracted hair hides calmly under a bunker hat - shame under the rim. Is it really that she is frivolous or under attack? There are no scars under Fontana’s slashes and torn down sleeves, while rug ridden knees stay well concealed. She confuses with hues and forms of photographic remakes à la Morandi while disappearing in the ocher dust of schrapnel bombs. The real treat comes at home while she puts on her shoulders the ‘Artist’s Breath’ unrolling the curtains to the view of rolled up body bags.

/TOMAS

All I ever wanted, all I ever needed, was nothing I deserved, and nothing I received. Holding on to the misery and tragical loss of a legend. Giving way to circus clowns and pantomime. Pantomiming fashion. It’s one of those performances without words. A silent movie for German tourists in Milan. Someone please pull the Paglialunga plug.
/HORST





1. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016
2. Sigalit Landau Barbed Hula, 2000
3. Oliver Laric Versions (Missile Variations), 2010
4. Filippo De Pisis Amanti, 1931
5. Grace Jones Warm Leatherette, 1980
6. Paul McCarthy Santa (with Butt Plug), 2002
7. Pablo Picasso Pierrot, 1918
8. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016

Under The Arches

Ditte Ejlerskov Full Arches, 2011-2012

Madonna, Lady Gaga, Shakira, Beyoncé, Rihanna, Victoria Beckham. In bed, on the floor, in the cage, on stage. Arching. Physcial performance symbols of celebrity culture. I saw the sign.

From Pop To Poop

Paul McCarthy Grand Pop, 1977

In homage and re-homage and anti-homage to a collection entitled 'Grand Poop', and also as a short break amidst the London womenswear plagiarisms, we turn to 1977. Everything that has been will be. Kiss the future. Fuck the past.

Study Of Me, 2014

or 'A Mean Man'

Top Brynje
Trousers H&M

Maybe this is the essence. The substrate of maleness and maximum subtract of butch, applied to myself. The fetish of male psychology between Kafka and Klein, my literary and aesthetic food. You are what you put in your mouth.
/HORST